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      <h1 class="post-title">2017元旦坡国举家跨年游（下）</h1>

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        <span class="post-time"> 2017-01-11 </span>
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            <a href="/categories/%E6%97%85%E6%B8%B8/"> 旅游 </a>
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          <span class="more-meta"> 约 1919 字 </span>
          <span class="more-meta"> 预计阅读 4 分钟 </span>
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  <h2 class="post-toc-title">文章目录</h2>
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    <li><a href="#11">1/1</a>
      <ul>
        <li><a href="#上午牛车水">上午：牛车水</a></li>
        <li><a href="#夜夜间野生动物园-night-safari">夜：夜间野生动物园 Night Safari</a></li>
      </ul>
    </li>
    <li><a href="#12">1/2</a>
      <ul>
        <li><a href="#鱼尾狮公园merlion">鱼尾狮公园Merlion</a></li>
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    </li>
    <li><a href="#13">1/3</a></li>
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      <h2 id="11">1/1</h2>
<h3 id="上午牛车水">上午：牛车水</h3>
<p>新年第一天去牛车水。牛车水就是Chinatown，但又不全是。从Chinatown站出来就是Pagoda街，全在卖小商品。路中段是牛车水原貌馆，保留了一些历史旧貌。街上的房子都不是传统闽南或岭南风格​，而是马来风格，百叶窗窄窄的上圆下方，涂刷得五颜六色。街的尽头是个印度教寺庙。新年首日教徒们蜂拥来祈福，鞋子沿着墙根摆了一地。感受一下那种气味。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2017/0111/001ZzLsRzy77Uxqrysv97.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：马里安曼兴都庙</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>​隔壁就是小吃一条街Smith街，但就和城隍庙一样，主要面向外国人，所以比较贵。我们走过一个街区，来到麦士威熟食中心（Maxwell Food Centre）。这是本地人较多光顾的小吃集市，性价比高一些。由于是新年第一天，很多店铺打烊，但有一家依然很火爆，食客大排长龙——听口音很多是大陆和台湾来的——那就是天天海南鸡饭。海南鸡饭可谓坡国国饭，简单的白斩鸡加米饭，不甚稀奇，要做出名堂得有杀招。天天鸡饭的杀招是鸡油酱汁拌饭​。吃起来果然喷香可口，连鸡都可以不要了。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2017/0111/001ZzLsRzy77UxrTayac6.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：天天海南鸡饭</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>平摊下来一个人只要几块钱就能吃得很高兴，的确比较亲民。</p>
<h3 id="夜夜间野生动物园-night-safari">夜：夜间野生动物园 Night Safari</h3>
<p>下午天降大雨，所有活动取消。晚上雨小了点，但因提前出票不能退，所以硬着头皮还是去夜间动物园​。然而因为下雨，Uber调拨不到车，车资也涨了很多。不得已，坐上了855。然而再换乘站苦等半天没见到138。最后还是扬招了两部的士。</p>
<p>到达时已经很晚，所以动物表演没有看。坐上中文游览车，沿着黑漆漆的车道走了一圈。​和日间动物园一样，动物和人的距离非常近。一些不太怕人的动物，几乎就趴在身边不远。但一些比较胆怯的鹿，就躲得较远了。最华彩的部分，是亚洲象和犀牛，因为这么大个头的动物站在不远处，只隔一道壕沟，这种体验很少有。英文导览车中途会放人下来体验几条小径，比如“花豹小径”、“沙袋鼠小径”。在不少路口，能看到这些徒步的游客。中文导览车全程只有四十分钟，不放人下车，不免有些遗憾。不过带着娃，少点危险也不是坏事。据说每个月都有游客跳下车招惹动物、反被挠咬之类的事故，中文导览车不放人下去，搞不好就是这个缘故。</p>
<p>夜间动物园至今仍是世界最顶尖的夜间主题动物园之一，除了游览时间短了点，几乎都很好。​完整攻略可以看：<a href="http://www.guokr.com/post/626645">果壳考察团报告</a>。</p>
<p>出口处有不少吃货店。买了几个榴莲冰淇淋，美味殊绝。​</p>
<p>​回程比较坎坷。Uber账号出了问题，横竖不给登录，又扬招不到出租车，只好硬着头皮坐138。但是着急忙慌的，也不知方向对不对。查Google地图​，居然没有公交线路图，然而我哪里知道那些blabla的地名是什么鬼。关键时刻出来救命的，居然是墙倒众人推的百度地图。看着定位锚点顺着138的下行路线在地图上闪动，心下大安。真没想到，人肉翻墙后，反倒找到了百度的好。</p>
<h2 id="12">1/2</h2>
<p>早上到怡丰城，撞见一家亚坤咖椰吐司。​点了咖椰吐司切片、蒸面包、丝袜奶茶和咖啡。这是南洋的传统早餐。所谓咖椰吐司，就是吐司三明治涂上咖椰酱（kaya jam），一种齁甜的椰子酱。蒸面包是把面包蒸软。丝袜奶茶和白咖啡就不用讲了。</p>
<p>然后坐地铁到来福士坊，出站东北行，穿过银行成林的金融区，就来到新加坡河入海口。那里有个公园缩在桥底，​主要看点是鱼尾狮，没错，就是那尊吐水的狮子。并没有什么特别的用途，主要给游客拍照打卡用。</p>
<h3 id="鱼尾狮公园merlion">鱼尾狮公园Merlion</h3>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2017/0111/001ZzLsRzy77UxF1efgd2.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：鱼尾狮</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2017/0111/001ZzLsRzy77UxFX4Zv0d.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：鱼尾狮公园全貌</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>​​​穿过外白渡桥造型的St. Andrew桥，是殖民地时期的政府区，如今新加坡的国家机关仍分布在这个区域。建筑都比较气派，草地广阔，人非常少，闹中取幽，不得不佩服英国人选址的眼光。远处是圆柱体形状的来福士购物中心。看到它，你就能理解为什么坡国人在上海设计的楼盘房型都那么奇葩，赤道哪里要考虑什么采光、风向。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2017/0111/001ZzLsRzy77Uxtpchic8.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：新加坡国立美术馆</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2017/0111/001ZzLsRzy77UxuyIx4e2.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：安德鲁教堂（背后是来福士碉堡）</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>积雨云翻滚​不已，天色全黑下来了。暴雨在即，赶紧搭地铁回去了。</p>
<h2 id="13">1/3</h2>
<p>凌晨很早起床退房，搭了部的士去机场。​之前的的士司机主要是中年印尼人和马来人，不会中文。这回的司机是个华人老头，一口潮汕普通话，主动来搭话。老头热烈地推荐科技馆，然后话锋快切，转到环境保护，说到新加坡雨季提前了一个月；又不知怎么转到了鬼故事，在台湾看了本鬼故事书，如何地冤魂显灵，如何地吓死凶手，三言二拍那种级别的故事。脑回路一点也跟不上，只能哼哈应付。</p>
<p>回程坐的是空客A380，头一回坐这种尺寸的飞机。似乎新航并不很在意手机的问题，A380上还提供wifi，手机只要不打电话，爱怎么玩怎么玩。这很好，应该推广到国内航班上。娱乐设施也很完备，看掉了两部电影。​</p>
<p>这次跨年行后半程天天下雨，很多规划的行程都没去，比如步游圣淘沙、环球影城。不过规划的美食一样不落都吃到了。行程满分！</p>
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